sv Elysium

Cruising thrugh Life


Spares to Carry:

Solenoid, Zincs, impellers, belts, oil pressure sending unit and a brass plug of the same thread. as many fuel filters as you can carry. If you have electric shut down, one of those solenoids. Lift pump, assortment of crush washers. a few ft of hose for all of your sizes.

Engine Parts (Perkins & Msc.)

Exhaust Hose:
by Nigel Calder

Exhaust hose requires a heavy-duty, fabric-reinforced construction. Until recently, there were no standards governing these hoses, but good-quality hose was invariably labeled as 'Type Certified Marine Exhaust Hose," or something similar. This has now changed with the Society of Automotive Engineers- (SAE) new standard for marine exhaust hose, SAEJ2OO6. Adopted by the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), this standard includes the requirement that the hose be able to withstand a total loss of cooling water for two minutes with the engine running at full power, and still not suffer a loss of integrity, -a pretty tough test. The few hoses that meet this standard will say so on the hose itself, and can be counted on to give good service.

Engine Raw-Water Hoses
by Nigel Calder

The engine manufacturer generally installs heavy-duty, fabric-reinforced hoses between the raw-water pump and the heat exchanger (including any oil coolers in the raw-water circuit), up to the point of the water-injection elbow on the exhaust. But, all too often the engine installer will use a light-duty rubber or plastic hose (such as automotive heater hose) to connect the raw-water seacock to the raw-water pump, plumb in a siphon break, and make the connections to a hot-water heater.

Although heater hose is generally designed to tolerate temperatures as high as 2100F, and pressures to 60 psi, it is relatively thin-walled and soft. If the raw water screen on the outside of the boat or the raw-water filter becomes clogged, the vacuum pulled by the raw-water pump will collapse heater hose, and most other non-wire-reinforced hose, starving the engine of water. What's more, heater hose-primarily because it is thin-walled, has relatively poor abrasion resistance. If the hose is in contact with some part of the engine bed or supporting structures, and is not itself firmly supported, the engine vibrations that are invariably transmitted to the raw-water suction hose will soon cause it to wear through.

Good-quality marine water hose, on the other hand, is thicker than heater hose, and is reinforced with different synthetic materials, commonly, polyester yarn in two or more layers, or plies.

Remote oil filter are a common feature on semi-trucks. Any decent truck supply store can make them up for you. You should have an idea of the flow rate you would need for your engine so you can size them properly.

For remote monitoring, go to a hydraulic supply and get a 12v differential switch with an adjustable 'set point' so that when the vacuum/pressure across the filter reaches the 'set point' a little bulb (or flashing LED or buzzer) comes ON on a panel somewhere. Cheap and you dont have to look at it all the time - but you still do have to monitor the gauges once in a while.

And install a vacuum gauge on your primary fuel filter and you can see the filter beginning to clog well before any significant blockage. (Murphy, for one company, makes a range of vacuum gauges.)

No one checks hidden gauges on a boat. Any filter set should be monitored with a vac./press. gauge .... or you'll never know WHEN to change a filter (why throw away a filter that has lots of life left in it).